The biggest challenge in this part of Jawa is the heavy climb to the top of Gunung Merapi. An adventurous mind, a good condition and good health are important for this tour. The Merapi belongs to the most active volcanoes in the world. It is guarded by six institutes, which warn the population in the area whenever there is need to. An eruption in 1006 partially covered the Borobudur. The eruption in 1930, which killed 1300 people and 2000 lifestock, was the most famous of the 20th century. In 2006, the volcano became active again, forcing thousands of residents to leave their houses for a few months.

Every now and then lava flows out of the crater. Much more dangerous are the rains of black sand, boiling mudd and stones, which slow down along the slopes and cause damage in villages and sawah's. The government has set out evacuation routes and has marked the areas where hot clouds can come down. Muntilan, west of the vulcano, is just in the danger zone. The respect for the power of the vulcano is expressed by yearly sacrifices (labuhan) on the day that they also remember the ascendance of the last sultan.

There are two main routes to the top of the vulcano. The most heavy starts in Kaliurang; the less heavy in the village of Selo, located on a small mountain range between Merapi and Merbabu. Selo is reachable on a nice curvy road via Muntilan or Boyolali, both provincial towns where you can take a break before you actually venture up the slopes of the always active volcano.

To the crater

The most safe route ot the crater is the one on the northern side. Take the bus to Malang in Yogya, and transfer to a mini-bus bound for Selo in Blabak. In the observation center (pos pengawasan) you have to leave your name and details; guides to the nightly trip to the top can be hired here too. Take an experienced guide which also knows the way above the tree-line, because the route there can be unclear as it is often not well-marked, or it simply changes after the volcano exhausts new material.

In Yogya different cooperations offer trips to the vulcano as well. They normally leave late in the afternoon from Yogya. You will spend a night in Selo, eat breakfast and have a guide included as well. For those who want to leave even later, and climb the mountain the same evening, arrangements can be made as well. More information to be found in the travel stores close to the Tugu railroad station in Yogyakarta and in the Prawirotaman area in the southern part of the city.

The climb from Kaliurang is long (six to seven hours) and not without danger; and experienced guide is needed. Christiaan from Vogel's Homestay guides a group to the top every night. At seven o'clock in the evening he holds an information meeting for the group that leaves at 1 o'clock at night. The rim of the crater is reached before sunrise, and at about 8 o'clock the descend starts, before the top dissapears in the clouds, and you won't se a thing anymore. For this heavy trip, a torch, warm clothes, water, food and good shoes are a real must.

The reward for the effort is the sunrise from the edge of the crater. At the horizon the majestic peaks of the Merbabu and Lawu mountains will appear. Further north a little Jawa Sea may be seen as well. In the south the Indian Ocean.