indahnesia.com - West Sumatra - Padang - Colonial harbour at the ocean shore

Padang is the provincial capital of Sumatera Barat ('West Sumatra') and the main gate to the Minangkabau highlands. The city, with a population of about 500,000 people, grew about ten per cent over the last years, and it's seaport, six kilometer south of the city, is the biggest along the western coast of Sumatra. Ships moored here fo load rubber, cinnamon, coffee, tea, nutmeg, rattan, plywood, concrete and coal (from the Ombilin highlands).

The most important place of interest is the Provicial Museum (Museum Negeri Adhityavarman), Jl. Pangeran Diponegoro 10. The museum is located in a park and is built in traditional Minang style (Gajah Maharam). The collection contains prehistoric objects, stamps, imported ceramics, manuscripts, modern arts and ethnographic information about the Minangkabau and the populations of the Mentawai islands (along the coast near Padang). One department is used for objects that are related to Minangkabau ceremonies like weddings, funerals and the inauguration of village leaders; another shows objects which were used in the daily life, like agriculture, the Islamic service and others. The cultural center of Taman Budaya, across the street, regularly organizes exhibitions.

Historical Padang

Padang has interesting old city quarters. Especially Kampung Cina (Chinatown), south of the central business- and hotel districts, with houses from around the turn of the 19th - 20th century, is worth while visiting. Start the walk near Jl. Hiligoo and walk towards the south along Jl. Pondok and Jl. Niaga. These streets are the domain of Chinese herb-sellers and coffee houses with remarkable tiles, wooden floors and furniture of djati-wood.

Turn right at the southern end of Jl. Niaga and walk along the river through the district Muara ('River mouth'), past the colonial Barbour area where small freighters still moor. Walk along the centuries-old warehouses full strong-smelling cinnamon and other spices that wait to be shipped to Jakarta and Singapore. This cay had her best time in the 1920's, when the production of coffee reached it's highs in the Minangkabau highlands.

Ferries cross the slow flowing Batang Arau, with it's dozens of boats and places of interest on it. Across the river a footpath leads to a Chinese graveyard on a hill, with a very nice view over the city and the old harbors. The hill, Bukit Monyet ('Monkey Hill'), was a loved object among Dutch painters in the 19th century.

West of it is the perfectly shaped Gunung Padang, as a waiter at the mouth of the river Batang Arau, A path leads to Siti Nurbaya park, with remains of a bunker and the Dutch trigonometrical point for the very first explorations of Sumatra. A cannon from the Second World War, at the bottom of the hill, still guards the entrance of the harbor.

Picture: Reflection of the provincial museum

Beaches and coral islands

From Gunung Padang a path leads along the coast towards the south to the most popular beach of the area: Air Manis ('Sweet Waters'). The beach can also be reached from the city center, then you can take a minivan; not big fun on Sundays because it's overcrowded then. When it's low tide, a trip towards a small island can be made over the seafloor. On the beach Bapak Chili offers simple accommodation and food.

The beach neighbors to a fishery village and is connected with the well-known legend of the young men of low descent, Maling Kundang, which became a rich trader overseas. When his mother heard that he returned with his ship, she made his favorite food and went to visit him in her best clothing. Maling Kundang was ashamed for his mother because she was already old, and did not have any teeth anymore, and her best clothes were just old rags. He just acted like he didn't know her and ordered his men to take her away. His mothers heart broke, and she cursed him. When the ship left again, a heavy thundershower broke out and the ship sunk. All men drowned and turned into stone; that's whats currently is the coral reefs just off the beach.

The village of Bungus, 25 kilometer south of Padang (about 45 minutes by bemo), is located along a beautiful bay with quiet water and a nice (paid) beach, which partially belongs to a recreational facility. One negative thing is that there is a plywood factory kind of close to is, and there is not much shade.

Rent a small ship in Bungus to visit the coral islands which are one hour off the coast. All islands offer shade, but when it's high tide, there often is just a small stretch of beach between the water and the rocks.

The most western island, Sirindah, has little shade, but does not have a rock soil - in contrary to all other islands - , so it's a good place for a walk. All islands are enclosed in beautiful white beaches, sometimes broken by sharp rocks or something like that, and just off the beach is always a colorful coral reef. There are plenty of fish around here. They show many colors, from brightly green and blue to yellow and red. The reefs are slowly demolished by coral reef fishermen, but the islands still are small paradises. Bring along snorkeling gear and food.

Out on the sea

Many boats that have moored in Padang are freighters which only do the route from and to the Mentawai islands and Padang. Since there are no regular ferry services to the Mentawai islands except for Siberut, these ships can help you a lot for those who want to visit the Mentawai islands. Almost daily, some of these freighters will leave for the Mentawai islands for a four to ten day journey on the Indian Ocean. They deliver modern goods, and take home the traditional products.

For those who are not scared by the reputation of the sailors, which are known as real bad guys all over Indonesia, this is a true Indonesian adventure: sleeping under the bear sky on the Indian Ocean and visiting unspoiled islands with it's traditional population.

Location map of Padang

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