West Sumatra ('Sumatera Barat', abbreviated to 'Sumbar') is a province of Indonesia. It lies on the west coast of the island Sumatra, and borders the provinces of North Sumatra ('Sumatera Utara') to the north, Riau and Jambi to the east, and Bengkulu to the southeast. It includes the Mentawai Islands off the coast. The capital of the province is Padang.
Bukittinggi ('High Hill') is in the middle of the Agam Valley, one of the three valleys which form the heart of the Minangkabau. While Padang is the modern business and governmental center, Bukittinggi is the cultural capital of the Minangkabau principality.
Bukittinggi, the biggest city in the highlands, grew from the Dutch fortress 'de Kock', which was built during the Paderi wars in 1825. This attractive, active city. many Indonesian intellectual people grew up, some of them were Mohammed Hatta, the first Indonesian vice-President.
However Bukittinggi is only one degree from the equator, it has a fairly cool climate because it's located on an altitude of 900 meters. It rains often, but many tourists still think this is the best city on Sumatra. Everything can be reached by foot, and food and accommodation are good, there is much to see and to and the people are friendly.
Bukittinggi's orientation point is Jam Gadang ('Big Clock') on the central square, a bell tower decorated with small Minang house. The tower can be seen from almost every part of the city and is a good starting point for a walk. The lively Pasar Atas ('Upper market', the central market) is close to it, and on Saturdays and Sundays, Minangkabau women sell all kinds of fresh vegetables , fruit and meat (except pork); the brightly colored plastic things seem to sell the best. Tawar ( 'bargaining') is very common, as well as all over Indonesia. Keep smiling and negotiate firmly. From here, walk towards the main street, Jalan Ahman Yani, with it's many antique and souvenir-shops, restaurants and offices. Two unique stair-shaped streets with even more shops descend from here towards Jl. Cinduamato on the right side.
The park Taman Bundo Kanduang, on top of the hill along Jl. Cinduamato, has a zoo and a museum. The view over the city is very nice as well as the environment. The name of the park points at the legendary 'Big Mother'-symbolics of the matriarchal Minangkabau. The zoo is visited a lot, especially on Sundays, however the animals have a pretty bad life.
The museum is houses in a traditional Minangkabau rumah gadang, complete with palm-fiber roof and attached rice-sheds. Inside there are examples of bridal clothing and tanduk head-shawls in the form of buffalo horns, and furthermore some old guns which were used against the Dutch and musical instruments. There also is a small fortune of gold jewelry; for centuries this was the area of the most important gold production in the entire Indonesian archipelago.
Bukittinggi once was called Fort de Kock, after the Dutch stronghold which was built here along the steep mountain hills in 1825. Stone ruins and a few cannons are the only remains of the fortress, locally known as benteng ('fortress'). A watchtower offers a splendid view over the sunsets and Gunung Marapi ('Fire Mountain', not the one on Java though), which spits out some smoke every once in a while.
People who like spectacular panoramic views should not pass the southern edge of the city, bordering to the amazing Ngarai Sianok ('Buffalo Hole'). This cliff has steep walls and a flat bottom which is part of the tectonic crack that runs across the entire island. The view is best early in the morning. While the first morning light shines on the peak of Gunung Singgaang, banks of fog hang around the peaks of the hundred-meter-high cliff. The river runs through the rice fields and dissolves in the foggy distance. A viewpoint in the Panoramic Park oversees the cliff and is a favorite spot for a hike in the afternoon. The path will lead you into ther again, along tunnels that were made by the Japanese. These tunnels can be visited with a guide and a flashlight.
Hiking to Kota Gadang
Kota Gadang, the village of silver-works, is just a few kilometers from Bukittinggi across the Ngarai Sianok. Walk into the ravine for one kilometer, turn left, cross the river over a small bridge and follow the path over a long stairs to the top. From here it's only a ten minute walk to the village. The specialty of this village is very thin silver-works. Miniature Minangkabau houses are sold, as well as earrings and other smaller versions of traditional objects.
Location map of Bukittinggi
Last revised on November 01, 2009
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