Malang was a popular stay for colonials. The city had a cool climate and is located on a nice, with vulcanoes surrounded plauteau, 450 metres above the pressing heat of the lowlands. In the east the active
Gunung Semeru dominates the view; the
Gunung Anjasmoro,
Arjuna and
Penderman in the north are covered with hotels and holiday places. Southwest of the city is the mystical
Gunung Kawi, where pilgrims pray for prosperity.
Following the
Dinoyo-inscription from 760 a kingdom flourished at the location of the current city; in the area there are many old objects. The modern Malang is an colonial city though. The growth started after 1870, when Europeans built coffe-, rubber, and cacao plantations and the sugar industry of the government started to grow. The wealth attracted more and more Dutch. They built houses in the city, and holiday house in the mountains of
Batu,
Selekta and
Lawang.
The
alun-alun of Malang was constructed in 1882 following the standard pattern; at it's border a market, a mosque, a prison and regents house. Later the Europeans built the house of the assisting resident, the Protestant church and later a bank building and a society. In 1914 a new city centre across the River Kali Brantas was constructed around a square at it's centre. At the same time a new quarter north of the city was built, complete with wide lanes and big trees. The colonial feeling can still be felt around here.
Afther the war the sigarette industry gave the city new economic growth. In the massife factory of PT Bentol, local dark tobacco is mixed with clove and made into an
kretek-sigarette, which are mostly hand-rolled and packed.
The good, 90 kilometre road from Surabaya to Malang takes you to the botanical garden of Purwodadi, an department of the
Kebun Raya Bogor. The garden, where the beautifull
Baung-falls are, stretches all the way to the lower hills of the
Arjuna.18 kilometres from Malang is Lawang, where the Dutch had a sanatorium and a psychiatric institute. The imposant Jugendstil hotels Niagara, which is said to be haunted, was designed for a rich Chinese in 1911 by the Brasillian architect Pinitu.
Malang on foot
Malang is a good place to view at a good walk. The
Balai Kota Malang, the city house at Jalan Tugu is the best point for a start. On the big, round square with the mahony trees for the shade. Earlier there was a fountain in the centre, but that was replaced with the
tugu ( memorial ) after the independence.
The Splendid Inn at Jalan majapahit used to be a landhouse; in 1973 it was rebuilt into a hotel. At the end of Jalan Majapahit is the Kali Brantas. At the other side of the bridge is
Wisma IKIP. This used to be a hotel, which was located high above the riverbanks. The spot is still famous because of it's bathing. At the slope at the othe bank are houses from the kampung, close together. Now there are two posibillities: a long walk to the market quarter or a short one to the
alun-alun. Turn right at the
Pasar Senggol roadsign and cross the bridge afterwards. Here is the eveningmarket, where traders sell dishes like
tahu campur,
mie bakso ( baso ) anf
rujak cingur.This market is just besides the
Pasar Bunga, flower market, a terraced nursery on the river banks. Past Jalan Kahuripan is the Ayani-mosque with the nice tileddome. Turn left here, and cross the bridge towards the crossing of Jalan Sermeru and Jalan Basuki Rakhmat. Above the shopping windows are the original colonial walls still visible.
The short route takes you from Jalan Majapahit just towards the cathedral. The road ends at Jalan Basuki Rakhmat, north of the
alun-alun. Cross the street towards Toko Oen. Since the father of the current owner opened the store at the end of the 1930's, on the inside nothing changed. Tourists and ladies from Malang buy fresh bread and nice cakes there, though it's closed on Mondays. Across the street is , besides the cathedral, the shopping centre of Sarinah, the former society Concordia. On the top floor, good handycrafts from Indonesia is for sale.
Besides the western road of the
alun-alun is the reformed church and just a little ahead the most important mosque of the city. In the southwestern corner of the square is Hotel Pelangi, the former Palace Hotel. Dutch tiles decorate the walls of the coffeehop. At the southern side of the square is a main
kantor pos post office. It's a gathering point for street sellers of food, toys and sellers who try to sell medicines to passers-by.
The new business district of Malang is more to the Southeast around Jalan h. Agus Salim. At this street are the shopping centres of Mitra and Gajah Mada Plaza, with well-provided supermarkets. One door ahead is the Malang Plaza with Kentucy Fried Chicken, across a big
pendopo where the regional government seats. Further south is the maze of
Pasar Besar ( big market ) It's an improvised mix of all kinds of things, erected after the old pasar burned to the ground in 1980. Walk towards the Chinese area and turn left into Jalan Irma Suryani/Jalan Pasar Besar for a visit to the old En An Kiong temple.
Colonial suburbs
The northwestern part of the city is most easy to reach by
becak, those are located at the central
alun-alun. Ask the driver to go towards Jalan Kawi. At the crossing with Jalan Arjuna is the Webb Institute e.g. Bamboe Denn, an English school which also offers a cheap place to sleep, Here you can get your information about tours to Semeru and the Bromo from Tumpeng, and to the east the nature reserve of
Lalijiwo at the Arjuno from Lawang.
Walk from Jalan Kawi towards the bookstort 'De Wijze Uil', specialized in foreign newspapers and magazines, and a big variety of English books about Indonesia. At the end of Jalan Kawi is restaurant Amsterdam, with tables in the garden. Get in the becak again, and let you drive to Jalan Ijen, a grand boulevard with houses surrounded by old palm trees. About half way is the army museum
Brawijaya, with Japanese tanks at the entrance. Across the street is the library and across that the shop
Batik Semar, put away in an old land house. Some solid pre-war houses were restaurated completely, including the exotic sculptures. North and west of this quarter are the campusses of Brawijaya University and
IKIP Malang Institut Keguruan dan Ilmu Pendidikan ).
Holiday places
Twenty kilometres west of Malang are the holiday places of Batu en Selekta, which are from the Dutch times. The old colonial buildings and the modern weekend vill;a's belong to the rich of Malang and Surabaya.
The main road from Malang to the northwest leads to Dinoyo, with a good pottery industry. Two buildings besides the road have a swimming pool and playground:
Togo Mas and
Sengkaling; quiet on weekdays.
A turn to the right takes you to Selekta. The bumby road climbc up along villas and impressivee trees towards Hotel Selekta. TGhe hotel, once an exclusive place of relaxation, is begint a big market on a hill, which guarantees a good view and a cool mountain breeze. The big swimming pool is in the park, which stretches along the mountain slope.
The village of
Sumber Brantas is just ahead, near the sources of the Brantas river. The road full of holes climbc to the vegetable nurseries and forested ravains over which is a cool fogg. Past the pass are untouched hot sources of the Canggar, a well-known spaot among youths.
Back on the main road appear dozens of
warung when you near the small city of batu. Various kinds of vegetables are sold; the area is well-known for its vegetables. The holiday hotels are past Batu, hold a rest at Amsterdam restaurant.
West of Batu starts Songgoriti, a place of holiday. Near
Candi Songgoriti are the hot suplhur sources and the recreation park
Tirtanirwana with swimming pools, playgrounds and a fishing pond. The main road with hairpin curves climbs along
Gunung Panderman. A statue of a cow guards the gate to the dairly lands; on the left a path leading to a park with campsites and a panoramic view. This path ends at a small densely forested claft with a 60 metre high fall
Cuban Rondo.
Back on the main road the route takes you to sawahs, some falls and closed, mountainous rainforest to the cities of Pare and Kediri in the lowlands. At the border of the forest, 28 kilometres from Malang, is the swimming pool of
Dewi Sri. Here the road descents towards
Ngantang and the Selorejo-reservoir ( 43 kilometres from Malang ), loved by watersporters.
The southern coast
60 Kilometres south of Malang are the beached of the rough southern coast, battered by wind, deserted and beautiful. The most are only reachable by car; a journey through poor farmers villages over rough landroads and stone hills. Ngliyep is attracting most visitors, especially on holidays like Labuhan ( normally in October ). However the sea looks very attractive, along these beaches are dangerous streams and whirlpools. This is the place of the Queen of the Southern Sea, Myai Ratu Kidul; the color green angers her and a huge wave takes away innocent swimmers.
At Sendangbiru swimming is safe. Here, boats can be hired ( make a clear price after bargaining ) for a trip to the island reserve
Sempu with sandy creeks which are overshadowed by low trees. It is said that this is the last place where the Jawanese tiger can be found. The green area of the 800 hectare big island is being engulfed in warm waves, and offers a view towards Jawa's green coastal area.
The beach of Balekambang is a popular place; in the sheltered bay are two small islands, connected by footbridges. On one of them is an Balinese temple, in which every March the
Jalanidipuja-ceremony is held. On the beach here
Suran-ceremonies - to celebrate Jawanese New Year - are held too, normally in July.
All three beaches can be reached by car. Others are only with four-wheel-drive and on foot along paths used by fishermen, like the beaches of Modangan and Tamban.
About 36 kilometres west of malang is the mystical Gunung Kawi, favorite place among pilgrims who want to become rich instantly. The biggest chance for success is the evening before
Jumat Legi, which returns every 35 days following the Jawanese calender.
Against the mountains are the graves of
Mbah Djugo and
Mbah Imam Sudjono; less about them is known, except their spirits are very strong. In the building with two graves are cristal crownes, with a thank you from people who's wish was accomplished. The story is that an poor
kretek producer came to this place to be inspired for a name of his company, and became rich in a very short time. Thig smoke from incense surrounds the religious. They do their wished to the
juru kunci, they 'key holder' or graveguard, while they throw a handfull of leaves over the graves.
