The picturesque fishery village, more than 50 kilometers southwest of Sukabumi, is home to the mysterious goddess of the South Sea, Nyai Roro Kidul. The legend tells that she would have been taken by the sea in Karanghawu, 14 kilometers to the west. Pelabuhan Ratu ('seaport of the queen'), is located in a wide bay, which has had the name 'Wijnkoopsbaai'. There is also a lively fishmarket near the seaport.
During the weekends this village is overloaded with visitors from Jakarta. It's not adviced to take a bath in the domain of the goddes, and especially not in green clothes. Green is the favorite colour of Nyai Roro Kidul and wearing it is an envitation for her to take that person to the depths of the ocean.
Bung Karno (Soekarno) ordered the construction of Samudra Be4ach Hotel on the spot where he used to meditate under the ketapang-tree. When the hotel was finished in 1965, he already had stepped down. On his demand, room 308 was permanently reserved for Nyai Roro Kidul.
Many Jawanese go to the hotel to pray and meditate to ask the goddess luck and prosperity in their lives. As a thank you they overload the room with all kinds of presents. A card with someones name is just there to make someone famous.
In the room there is a special, serene atmosphere which makes us believe the many stories about it. Once someone forgot to get his shoes of, and all of a sudden his photocamera went dead. Who spends the night in the hotel can see the room of Nyai Roro Kidul, also without the meditation purpose. From Bandung there are buses to Pelabuhan Ratu via Sukabumi (5 hours). There is no direct bus connection with Jakarta. You can best take the bus to Bogor of Sukabumi and get out in Cibadak, from where you can take a minivan to Pelabuhan Ratu.
An unusual but nice route is the one from Ratu to Pelabuhan Ratu via Malingping. The road which takes you to the east, takes you along old rubber plantations. This area was once covered in jungle. Which has been replaced with what you can see today. Behind the houses you can sometimes find a traditional Sundanese riceshed, as they are also found among the Baduy.