Jakarta has developed from the north to the south, seen in an historical way. Places of interest can best be visited in a chronogolical way. Start wirh the old harbour in the north, and then go south towards the old VOCV-headquarters (Kota) and the Chinese quarter (Glodok), to end the journey at Medan Merdeka (Freedom Square), or in one of the new suburbs. Take half a day for every part.
The old harbour
Batavia developed around the old spice-seaport of Sunda Kelapa. Nowadays it forms the northen part of Jakarta, where the Ciliwung mouths in the Jawa Sea. in 1619 the VOC founded a trading fortress at the eastern bank, 'het Kasteel' (the Castle), which was fortified with walls and 15 big bastions over the years.
The old watchtower 'de Uitkijk' (the View) on jalan Pakin was built in 1839 on bastion Culemborg (a small city in Holland nowadays), to guard the coastal waters. Later is also served as a weather station. Today you can still visit it, and enjoy a view over the entire area. Before 1619 on this spot there was the customs-office ('
pabean' called Paap Jan by the Dutch) of Sunda Kelapa.
The old harbour, which was in use ever since the 12th century, stretches from north of the tower to across the river. On the west of the river the Dutch built a timber-shipyard in the 17th century. In 1817 this building was renovated and enlarged. This is also the place where the
pinisi-ships are, one of the last big sailing commercial fleets of the world. On the rickety gangways carriers walk everywhere with sacks, boxes, cables, barrels and wood. The nice, hand-built boats are mored bow to bow, and belong to Jakarta's picturesque places of interest. Travelers with a little adventure can negotiate here for a journey to other islands. Sulawesi can be reached in ten days if the winds are good.
On the western bank of the river, somewhat to the north of the guarding tower, there is the marine museum Bahari. It's settled in the warehouses which were built by the VOC in 1652. Earlier a big variety of goods was stocked here, pepper, nutmeg, coffee, tea, copper and much more. In this beautifull complex of buildings some traditional sailers are being displayed, they give an impression of Indonesia's history at sea.
Just in front of the museum the only remained massive city wall which surrounded Batavia can be found. Fout out of the fifteen bastions which surrounded 'het Kasteel' were square. They had names from precious stones like Diamant, Pearl, Ruby and Sapphire, to wich Batavia got it's nickname 'Kota Intan', City of Jewels.
Behind the museum there is the big fish market, Pasar Ikan. Mainly the day's heat is producing tremendous bad smell. Around it there is a true maze of little shops with shells, ship-goods, kitchen products, fishing-nets, model-ships and all kinds of old-fashioned stuff. Just like the early days it's a constant coming and going of traders, kids, beggers and chess-players.
The part directly south and east of the harbour, also known as '
Kota', once formed the centre of a walled city. There are several remains of the times of the company. Between
Kali Besar and
jalan Kakap are the old VOC-shipyards and the Chinese warehouses. The 18th-century company shipyard was closed in 1809 because of unhealthy circumstances, but the ramshackle depot and the beautifull warehouses are still in use today, as well as four old warehouses on jalan Tongkrol (Mackerel Street).
These aer not open for public. Futher south at jalan Nelayan Timur, there is a typical Dutch drawbridge. The Hoendermarktbrug (hen-bridge) is about 200 years old, and bridges the northern part of the
Kali Besar. It was restaurated in the seventies, but is not in terrable state again. At Jalan Kali Besar Barat, south and west of the bridge, the former house of governor-general Van Imhoff, dating from 1730, can be found at number nine. The house is known as Toko Merah (Red House) and has beautifull Chinese woodcarvings, characteristic for the 18th century houses in Batavia. Now, it belongs to PT Dharma Niaga. The offive of the Chartered Bank, on number three dated back to the same century. Both buildings can be visited during office hours.
The Fatahillah square
The centre of control in old-Batavia was located on some distance of the harhous at a square, which is now known as Taman Fatahillah. The founders of the city ordered a splendid cityhouse to be built. Square and buildings were restaurated between 1972 and 1975, part of a big project aimed on saving Jakarta's historical places. The colonial buildings became museums.
The cityhouse, on the south of the square, houses the Museum Sejara Jakarta Fatahillah, an historical museum in which old maps and antiques from the colonial times are shown to the public. The 37 beautifull decorated rooms still have the atmosphere of the VOC-times. The cityhouse was rebuilt three times, the last time in 1710, and served at courthouse, city council and prison.
A big collection of wayang puppets from all over Indonesia is being displayed in the Wayang Museum, jalan Pinto besar Utara 27, at the west side if the Faatahillahsquare. In early ages the New Dutch Church was located here. This was replaced by warehouses in 1808. At the back gravestones from Dutch people from the comany-time can be seen.
In the former palace of justice the museum of Arts and Keramics (Balai Senu rupa Jakarta & Museum Keramik) is being housed. The building from 1870 is neoclassical and contains a collection antique porcelain which vice-Presicent Adam malik left to Jakarta, as well as modern Indonesian paintings.
Besides restaurant Fatahillah, at the north side of the square, the cannon of fertillity (Si Jagur) can be found. The Portuguese cannon was taken to Batavia after the conquest of Malaka in 1641. From the back of the cannon, a vist with it's thumb between index finger and middle finger, a pose that is considerred obscene in Indonesia as well. Childless women have the habit to sit down on the barrel of the cannon, in the hope to get pregnant.
The quarter south of Fatahillah was redeveloped in the 19th and 20th century. An exeption was Gereja Sion, or the Portuguese church at jalan Pangeran Jayakarta, east of station Kota. The church was built by Mardijkers in 1695 (from
'Merdeka', which means independence), and people from Portuguese-Indian or African origin, which were taken to Batavia as slaves in the 17th century. At the end of the 17th century they got their freedom, when they went away from Catholicism and turned to Protestantism under pressure. The church, the oldest in Jakarta, orgininally had benches and copper chandlers.
The Chinese quarter Glodok
Chinese always played an important role in Indonesias economy. After the massacre of 1740, in which about 5000 Chinese were killed, the Chinese were appointed a special area south of the old city walls. It is now known as Glodok. The use of Chinese writing is allowed in Indonesia since shortly after the fall of Suharto in May 1998, but until then, signs which are representative for Chinatowns all over the world couldn't be found here. Chinese architecture can be found everywhere in the network of small streets and alleys behind Glodok Plaza, filled with merchands, food stalls (
warung-warung) and shops.
The Dharma Jaya temple of Jin-de Youan (Temple of the Golden Good) at jalan Petak Sembilan is one of the oldest and biggest Chinese religional places of Batavia. The temple was built around 1650, and was meant to honor Kuan Yin (Guanyin), the goddess of mercy. The temple Candra Naya, at jalan Gajah Mada 188, is housed in the former landhouse if merchand So Bing Kong. In 1619 he became leader of the Chinese community and intermediary between Chinese and the first three governors of the VOC. His gravetombe can be found in a house at Gang Taruna.
Many 'Batavian' Chinese became islamic before the 20th century and Glodok also has a number of old Chinese mosques. South of the National Archive, at the corner of jalan Hayam Wuruk en jalan Kebon Jeruk is the Kebon Jeruk-mosque, built in 1785 or 1786. The style of building is an extraordinary mixture of islamic, Chinese and Dutch influences. Another Chinese 18th-century mosque, Mesjid Krukut, is located at jalan Kebahagiaan, at the corner of jalan Kejayaan 1.
In the 18th century rich Europeans and Chinese settled outside the city walls in the big gardens in the south. At the place where jalan Gajah Mada and jalan Hayam Wuruk are today, they built big Dutch landhouses. The only remained one is at jalan Gajah Mada 111, in the nowadays city centre. It was built for Reinier de Klerk in 1760, the later governor-general. In 1844 it was rebuild into an orphanage and in 1925 it housed the country archive. In 1979 a restauration took place.
The quarter south of jalan Gajah Mada is also know as 'Harmonie' (Harmony), after the society with the same name, the biggest in South-East Asia. In 1979 it was demolished because traffic was expanding, a square was built at jalan Majapahit. Construction was started under governor-general Deandels (1808-1811). In 1815, during Stamford Raffles, the society was completed. The 'Harmony' became the meeting place for the rich elite of the colonial society.
At the other side of the traffic-square, at the corner, the earlier popular fashion designers Oger Frères worked. Their building, which is now a travel agency, was in the centre of the elegant, rich European-looking city, which developed in the 19th century. Only the statue of Hermes on the railing of the bridge does remind of that period. He is not watching the passing cars, and still holds his globe, which is degraded to a football.
Medan Merdeka and Monas
Medan Merdeka, Square of Independence, is a big field in the centre of Jakarta, every side of it surrounded with wide boulevards with governmental buildings. In the time of Deandels it served as an excersition field ; before that, cattle grazed on it. In 1818 it became the centre of power from Batavia under the name 'Koningsplein', (Kings Square) In the sixties the masses listened to anti-imperialistic and national speeches of Sukarno.
In the middle of the square is Monas (short for Monumen Nasional, National Monument). The 137 metre high obelisk, which was build in order of Sukarno in 1964, carries a bronze flame (the flame of the Indonesian nationalism), which is covered with 35 kilos'of pure gold.Monas is the most remarkable orientation point and the non-official symbol of Jakarta. With clear weather, the top of the obelisk offers a good view over the city. The top can be reached by elevatior. A museum is built in the feet of the structure, it offers 48 diarama's which show the history of Indonesia.
The '
Museum Nasional', the National Museum at the west side of the square was founded in 1778 by the 'Bataviaasch Genootschap van Kunsten en Wetenschappen' (Batavian Society of Arts and Science), is the oldest in Indonesia. The building itself is in desparate need of a restauration, and also need an reorganisation. The showcases show numerous of treasures: the famous skull of the Jawa-man, the famous stones and bronze statues and inscriptions from the Hindu-Javanese period, the treasury room with golden and silver opjects, and the department bronze objects. The Ganesha Society organises interesting guided-tours in the morning. The first floor offers keramics from Chinas, Annam, Thailand, Persia and Euroe, the earlies collection of E.W. van Orsoy de Flines (1886-1964).
At the north of the Merdeka square two mayor presidential palaces are built. The most northern building is Istana Negara, the State palace, the former Palace Rijswijk. It was built in 1796 by Jacob Andries van Braam and server as residence of the governor-generals since 1820. Between 1873 and 1879 a new, bigger, palace was being built at the Koningsplein, now jalan Medan Merdeka Utara, 'Paleis Koningsplein' ('Palace Kingssquare'). The official tranfer of sovereignty took place on 27 December 1949 took place in this palace. Since then, the palace is called Istana Merdeka, Palace of Independence. Officialy it's the residence of the current President, but it is not used for that purpose. Suharto, in his time, preferred his house in Menteng area.
Between Wilhelminapark and Menteng
Mesjid Istiqlal at the east side of jalan Medan Merdeka Utara was opened for public in 1978, and is the biggest mosque in Southeast Asia. On the place of the mosque, the former 'Wilhelminapark' used to be 'Fort Noordwijk' (fortress Noordwijk), which was broken down in 1809. More south a monument was built later to remember the Aceh-war, which was removed during Suharto's reign.
However an overwhelming part of Indonesias population is islamic, other religions are also officially recognized. There are important Christian comunitios, mostly in Eastern Indonesia. This recognition is especially used inside the churches, which surround the big mosque. At Jalan Katedral the catholic cathedral with black towers can be found. The cathedral was built in 1901 in neo-classical style to the design of architect C.J. Hulswit.
More to the south, at the corner of Jalan Pejambon, the Gereja Imanuel is located, the former calvinistic Willemskerk, named after king Willem I. The neo-classical building was built between 1835 and 1839, to a design of J.H. Horst. It offers a wide variety of old Dutch silver. In the more southern Menteng, just across Hotel Aryaduta Hyatt at Jalan Ptrepatan, is the All Saints Church (English Church) from 1829, with nice decorated windows.
Between the cathedral and Hotel Borobudur is Lapangan Banteng (Buffalo Field), the former Waterlooplein (Square Waterloo), with an enormous statue of a handcoffed man which breaks his chains. It was built from molten Dutch coins to order of Sukarno in 1963, to rememberance of the liberation of Irian Jaya. Until 1820 landhouse Weltevreden could be found south of the Waterlooplein, it belonged to governor-general Mossel. In 1857, the military hospital was built, which is still in use as military hospital as of today. East of the square, now Lapangan Benteng Timur, Deandels started with the construction of a palace, 'het Witte Huis'(the White House), the Department of Finance today. besides the neo-classical Mahkamah Agung or higher court, which dates back to 1848. At Jalan Taman Pejambon is Gedung Pancasila. This neo-classical buiolding from 1829 served as headquarters of the KNIL, and after 1917 as seat of the Volksraad (People's Council). Because Sukarno did his famous Pancasila-speech in this building, it was declared an national monument later on. North of Lapangan Banteng is Gedong Kesenian, the former municipal theathre from 1821. After the war a cinema was built, but after a good restauration the building got it's original destination back. The Pasar Baru or Nieuwmarkt (New Market), is on the other side of the canal. In the many shops everything is for sale, from textile to computers.
Menteng, south of Medan Merdeka, is a big, quiet, green quarter with colonial houses, modern expensife villa's and embassies. The diplomats and CEO's live in this area. Right through the heart of Menteng is Jalan Diponegoro, the most expensife street in Jakarta. At side street of Jalan Surabaya is a flee market with numerous stalls full with ántiques', the most new imitations and all kinds of other things.
The suburbs
Jalan Jendela Sudirman, the wide, busy boulevard which runs from Menteng due south is the golden street of Jakarta. The shining towers of steel and glass house banks and big internationals. The statue of a smiling man which holds something that most looks like a
hot plate , Pizza Man, if asked at people. He marks the southern end of Jalan Sudirman. Here starts the satellite city of Kebayoran Baru, which more looks like a suburbian area, with shopping mall Blok M Plaza. Further south is the new suburb of Pondok Indah, full of expensife villa's. The
nouveaux riches have built their big houses and country clubs on what used to be rice fields not too long ago. In the quarter Pasar Minggu, at the southern border of Jakarta, about 15 kilometres from the city's centre, Ragunan zoo is located. In this nature park, opened from 9.00 to 18.00, it's nice to have a walk or a picnic between all kinds of flora and fauna. Weekends are usually overcrowded.
Another busy Sunday place to be in the southern part of the city is Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (Nice Indonesia Miniature Park), a park of 100 hectares in which all different building styles from all over the archipelago are displayed. Start with Keong Mas, the form of a extraordinary snails house, for a magnificent journey on film through Indonesia on a giant screen. The park also offers a museum, an orchid garden and a birdpark.
